Early Days of Wisconsin’s Cheese-Making Traditions
As I stepped out of the Time Machine, I found myself in a Wisconsin farm town, where the scent of fresh hay and milk drifted through the morning air. I’d traveled to the early 1850s—a time when Wisconsin’s now-iconic cheese industry was just beginning to find its footing. Over the last few days here, I’ve met local farmers, cheesemakers, and even a few skeptics, each one offering a unique view of the uncertain early days of cheese-making in the state.

Back in 1814, Charles Rockwell—Wisconsin’s earliest cheesemaker—had set up a small production in Koshkonong, near Fort Atkinson. He worked alone, in a modest setup, transforming milk into something with a longer shelf life that could be shared with the nearby community. But cheese-making was more of a family or local farm endeavor at that time, rather than a commercial enterprise. While Rockwell’s cheese was modestly popular, the demand for dairy was still limited, making many farmers hesitant to specialize in dairy production.
It wasn’t until 1841 that I witnessed the true beginnings of something bigger. There, I saw Anne Pickett, a determined woman in Lake Mills, turning her humble cabin into a small cheese factory. With her neighbors’ cows providing a steady milk supply, she established the first official cheese factory in the state. I could sense her excitement and the determination to make something more out of Wisconsin’s resources. Her hard work paved the way for Wisconsin’s future as America’s Dairyland, even though she likely never saw the full impact of her innovation.
During my time here, I was struck by how quickly the industry began to evolve. The 1840s brought about a shift in focus, as farmers started improving their herds and cheesemakers began refining their techniques. I watched as farmers discussed the texture and taste of cheese with pride, comparing different methods and recipes. Yet the industry had a challenge: there seemed to be as many cheese-making methods as there were cheesemakers, leading to wildly inconsistent flavors and quality. Some cheeses were soft and crumbly, others sharp and aged. The sheer variety was exciting but also daunting for anyone looking for standardization.

By the 1850s, there was a clear push for consistency and quality, thanks to advice from emerging dairy experts. I listened in on a gathering where an expert explained the importance of temperature control and proper storage—things we take for granted now but were groundbreaking at the time. I could see how farmers were wary, questioning whether the extra effort would pay off in a market that still wasn’t sold on dairy products. They listened thoughtfully, torn between tradition and the opportunity for something new.
It’s incredible to witness this evolution in person and feel the early uncertainty of an industry that would soon become iconic. As I returned to my own time, I couldn’t help but appreciate the efforts of those early Wisconsin cheesemakers who experimented, struggled, and ultimately laid the groundwork for what would become a cheese empire. For anyone else traveling back here, I’d recommend stopping by one of these early farmsteads. Ask about their cheese-making methods—you’ll hear some fascinating stories and see that the seeds of greatness were being planted long before the world took notice.